Lisbon's little yellow Tram 28 is one of the most photographed rides in Europe, rattling up and down the city's steepest hills through Alfama, Graça and the Baixa — and it's also, honestly, one of the most crowded and pickpocket-targeted rides in the city during peak hours. It's still worth doing, but knowing when to ride it, and which of Lisbon's other historic trams make a calmer substitute, makes a real difference.
The route that makes it famous
Run by Carris, Lisbon's public transport operator, Tram 28 (Eléctrico 28) threads through some of the city's oldest and steepest neighbourhoods — Martim Moniz, the Graça viewpoint district, the tightly packed lanes of Alfama, past the Sé cathedral, down through the Baixa, and on towards Estrela in the west. It's a genuinely useful transport route as well as a sightseeing ride, since much of the ground it covers is either too steep or too narrow for a comfortable walk, particularly with any luggage.
The crowd reality
In practice, Tram 28 in the middle of the day during high season means a long queue at the main stops, a packed carriage standing room only, and a ride that can feel more like an ordeal than a scenic treat. The vintage trams are small, seating only a few dozen people, and demand vastly outstrips that capacity at the popular boarding points.
Alternatives: 12E, 15E and 24E
Tram 28 isn't the only historic line, and the others see a fraction of the crowds. Tram 12E runs a short circular loop connecting Martim Moniz with Graça and back down through part of Alfama — a compact way to see similar hillside scenery without committing to the full length of the 28's route. Tram 15E is a longer, modern, air-conditioned tram running from the Baixa out to Belém, the riverside district with the Tower of Belém and the Jerónimos Monastery — considerably more comfortable than the vintage cars, and the practical choice if your goal is simply to reach Belém rather than to ride a heritage tram for its own sake. Tram 24E climbs from Restauradores up towards Campolide and the Amoreiras district, a steep, quieter route through residential Lisbon that most visitors never think to try, and correspondingly far less crowded.
Tickets: zapping beats paying on board
All of Lisbon's trams use the same integrated system as the metro and buses, built around the Viva Viagem reloadable card, available from metro station machines for a small refundable deposit. Loading the card with credit and tapping (known locally as "zapping") costs meaningfully less per ride than buying a single ticket for cash from the driver on board, which carries close to double the price. If you'll be riding trams more than once or twice, it's also worth considering a 24-hour unlimited pass loaded onto the same card, covering trams, the metro, funiculars and buses for one flat cost.
When to actually ride the 28
Early morning, before the main tourist flow builds up, or the last couple of hours before trams stop for the night, are consistently the best windows for a bearable ride on the 28 — the difference in both crowding and pickpocket risk between an 8am ride and a 2pm ride in July is substantial. If you can only manage the middle of the day, consider boarding at a stop away from the main departure points (Martim Moniz or Praça do Comércio), where the tram may already be full by the time it reaches the busiest photo-op stops.
Beyond the trams: the funiculars
Lisbon's hills are also served by a handful of funiculars and one street elevator, all run by Carris and covered by the same Viva Viagem card — the Ascensor da Bica, the Ascensor da Glória and the Elevador de Santa Justa among them. They're a natural complement to a tram ride, tackling the steepest single climbs the trams don't cover directly, and see a similar mix of genuine local use and tourist queues at peak times, particularly at Santa Justa. Our Lisbon trams and metro guide covers the full public transport picture, including the metro network and the funiculars in more detail.
Fitting the trams into your trip
If you're arriving by air, see our Lisbon airport to the city guide for the metro link in from Humberto Delgado Airport, and if you're only passing through on a stopover, our Lisbon layover guide covers what's realistic to fit in, including a short tram ride, with just a few spare hours. For onward travel by rail, our wider Portugal by train guide covers CP's network beyond the city, including the popular day trip to Sintra.
Frequently asked questions
Is Tram 28 worth riding despite the crowds?
Yes, for the route and the scenery, but go early morning or late evening if you can. In the middle of the day in high season, expect long queues, a packed carriage and a real risk of pickpocketing.
Which Lisbon tram is less crowded than the 28?
Trams 12E and 24E see far fewer tourists and cover different, quieter hillside routes. Tram 15E, the modern line to Belém, is more comfortable and less crowded than the 28, though it doesn't pass through Alfama.
What ticket do I need for the Lisbon trams?
A Viva Viagem card, loaded with credit for "zapping" or a 24-hour pass, bought from metro station machines. It's meaningfully cheaper than paying cash on board and covers trams, metro, buses and funiculars.
Is pickpocketing really common on Tram 28?
Yes, it's a well-known, ongoing issue precisely because the tram is crowded, slow and full of visitors distracted by the view. Keep bags zipped and to the front, especially when the tram is at its most packed.
Sources and further reading:
- Tram routes, fares and Viva Viagem: Carris (carris.pt).
- Metropolitano de Lisboa for connecting metro information.