Shetland and Orkney are reached by some of the most satisfying overnight ferries in Europe. NorthLink Ferries operates the lifeline services to both island groups from mainland Scotland — Shetland from Aberdeen, Orkney from both Aberdeen and Scrabster. Taking the ferry rather than flying is not simply the budget option: it is a proper sea voyage that puts the distance between you and the mainland in the most visceral possible way.
The Aberdeen to Lerwick route (Shetland)
The overnight sailing from Aberdeen to Lerwick (Shetland's main town) is the principal route to the islands. The crossing takes around 12–13 hours and typically departs Aberdeen in the evening, arriving in Lerwick early the following morning — a schedule that doubles as a cheap hotel and gets you to the islands without losing a day of your trip.
The ship is MV Hjaltland or MV Hrossey — large, well-equipped vessels that carry passengers, cars, lorries and freight. There is a restaurant, a café bar, a shop and — crucially — cabins in various configurations, from shared berths to en-suite two-berth cabins. A sleeping option is strongly recommended: the North Sea is not always calm, and a cabin gives you somewhere to retreat and lie down. Reclining seats are available as a cheaper alternative but comfort is noticeably lower.
Some sailings continue from Lerwick to Bergen in Norway — making this a possible jumping-off point for Scandinavia, though you should confirm the current sailing schedule as Norwegian services have varied over the years.
Aberdeen to Kirkwall route (Orkney)
NorthLink also runs from Aberdeen to Kirkwall on Orkney, on a service that roughly takes between 5–7 hours depending on the sailing. Some sailings call at both Kirkwall and Lerwick, meaning you could island-hop by ferry if you plan the schedule carefully. Check the timetable: some Aberdeen–Kirkwall crossings operate during the day and some overnight, so the experience varies considerably.
Scrabster to Stromness route (Orkney)
The other option for Orkney is the Scrabster to Stromness route, also operated by NorthLink. Scrabster is a small harbour town just outside Thurso in Caithness — the far north of mainland Scotland. The crossing takes around 1 hour 30 minutes to 2 hours, making it a short hop rather than an overnight voyage.
This is the logical choice if you are already in northern Scotland or have driven up the A9. From Inverness, Scrabster is about two hours by road; from Edinburgh it is a long drive of around four to five hours. The scenery on the approach — the dramatic cliffs of Hoy visible on the horizon well before you reach Stromness — makes for a memorable arrival.
For more context on driving in Scotland and the roads north, see the Viamo guide to driving in Scotland.
Taking a car
Both islands are best explored with a car, and NorthLink carries vehicles on all routes. Car spaces must be booked in advance — they are in particularly high demand on the overnight Aberdeen–Lerwick sailing in summer, and on summer weekends on the Scrabster–Stromness route. Book as early as the sailing opens, especially if travelling in July or August.
Loading procedures are straightforward: check in at the terminal with your booking reference, join the vehicle queue, and drive aboard when directed. On overnight crossings, you leave the car on the vehicle deck and collect it in the morning before disembarkation.
For a broader guide on what to expect when taking a car on a ferry, see taking a car on a ferry.
Booking NorthLink ferries
Book directly on the NorthLink website or through ferry aggregators. NorthLink fares tend to be more stable than many commercial ferry operators because the service is operated under a public service obligation — it is a lifeline service for island communities — but peak summer sailings still fill up early, particularly for cabins and car spaces. Foot-passenger tickets are more readily available last minute.
Look out for promotional fares in the shoulder season (May–June and September–October), when prices drop and the islands are often at their most pleasant. A combined rail-and-ferry ticket linking the overnight train from London or Edinburgh to Aberdeen is sometimes available through ScotRail and transport operators.
What to do in Shetland and Orkney
Shetland is Britain's most northerly inhabited territory, closer to Bergen than to Edinburgh. Lerwick is a compact and characterful town, but the islands reward exploration — the Neolithic village of Jarlshof in the south, the dramatic cliffs of Hermaness in the north (with gannets and the possible sighting of a passing orca), and the treeless, windswept moorland that makes the landscape unmistakably itself.
Orkney is more accessible in geography but equally rich in substance. The Neolithic monuments — Skara Brae, the Ring of Brodgar, the Standing Stones of Stenness, and the chambered tomb of Maes Howe — are among the most remarkable in Europe, and all are within easy reach of Kirkwall or Stromness.
Inter-island ferries within Orkney and Shetland
Both archipelagos have their own internal ferry networks connecting the outer islands. In Orkney, Orkney Ferries links Kirkwall to the northern and southern isles; in Shetland, inter-island ferries and small planes connect the outer islands such as Unst, Yell and Whalsay. These are separate from NorthLink and have their own schedules and booking systems. If you plan to venture beyond the main islands, build in extra time — inter-island ferries run to community timetables and may not operate every day.
For more on Scotland's wider island ferry network, see Scotland's ferries and CalMac.
Practical notes
- Cabin booking: en-suite two-berth cabins on the Aberdeen–Lerwick run are the most popular and sell out first. Book the moment your dates are confirmed.
- Pets: pet kennels are available on NorthLink overnight crossings, but numbers are limited. Book ahead and confirm requirements.
- Catering: the restaurant and café bar on overnight sailings are generally good. Dinner on the ship is a pleasant way to spend the first few hours of the voyage; the bar often has a social atmosphere.
- Weather: the North Sea is the North Sea. Rough crossings are possible year-round but more common in autumn and winter. NorthLink rarely cancels but may occasionally delay.
Frequently asked questions
How long is the ferry from Aberdeen to Lerwick?
The overnight crossing from Aberdeen to Lerwick takes approximately 12–13 hours. It usually departs Aberdeen in the evening and arrives in Lerwick the following morning, making it a useful substitute for a night in a hotel.
Do I need a cabin on the overnight ferry to Shetland?
A cabin is strongly recommended for comfort, particularly if the sea is rough. Reclining seats are cheaper but far less restful. En-suite two-berth cabins are the most popular and book out early; book as soon as your dates are set.
Which is quicker — Aberdeen or Scrabster for Orkney?
For Orkney, the Scrabster–Stromness crossing is shorter at around 90 minutes to two hours, compared to the Aberdeen–Kirkwall route which takes several hours. Scrabster makes sense if you are already in northern Scotland; Aberdeen is more convenient if you are coming from the south or want to combine Orkney and Shetland on one trip.
Can I travel from Aberdeen to both Orkney and Shetland on the same ticket?
Some NorthLink sailings call at both Kirkwall (Orkney) and Lerwick (Shetland), making a combined itinerary possible. Check the current timetable — not all sailings stop at both ports, and the schedule varies by day of the week and season.
Sources and further reading:
- Timetables, fares and booking: NorthLink Ferries (northlinkferries.co.uk).
- Internal island services: Orkney Ferries (orkneyferries.co.uk) and Shetland inter-island transport (shetland.gov.uk).
- Island travel and context: The Man in Seat 61.