Indonesia is usually explored by scooter, by hired car with a driver, or by a mix of the two — rarely by self-drive car alone. Bali and Java both drive on the left, traffic is dense and, in places, only loosely governed by the rules on paper, and the practicalities of getting an international licence recognised can be more trouble than they're worth. Here's how driving actually works across the archipelago's most visited islands.
Left-hand traffic, right-hand drive
Indonesia drives on the left, with the steering wheel on the right — the same convention as the UK, Australia, Japan and much of South-East Asia. For visitors used to right-hand traffic, the adjustment usually takes a day or so of conscious concentration, particularly at junctions and roundabouts, before it becomes automatic.
Formal traffic rules exist and broadly resemble those elsewhere, but in practice Indonesian traffic — especially in Bali's tourist south and across Java's cities — runs on a more negotiated, horn-and-eye-contact basis. Lane markings are loosely observed, scooters filter between cars constantly, and give-way conventions at unsignalled junctions are informal. This takes some getting used to, but the pace on most roads is slow enough that it's manageable once you adjust your expectations.
Scooters: the dominant way to get around
Scooters (locally, motor) are by far the most common way both locals and visitors get around Bali and Java's smaller towns. They're cheap to hire, easy to park, and can slip through traffic that would leave a car stationary. For short hops around a town or between nearby beaches and rice terraces, a scooter is often genuinely the most practical option.
That said, scooter accidents are a leading cause of injury among tourists in Bali specifically, and the risk is real: many visitors have little or no scooter experience, rental helmets are sometimes poor quality, road surfaces vary widely, and other traffic — including other inexperienced tourists — adds risk. If you do hire a scooter:
- Use a proper helmet (bring or buy your own if the rental one looks flimsy) — police checks for helmets do happen, particularly in Bali's tourist areas.
- Confirm your travel insurance actually covers scooter accidents; many policies exclude them unless you hold the correct licence category, so check the small print before you ride.
- An International Driving Permit covering motorcycles, alongside your home licence, is the legally correct requirement for foreign riders — see our IDP guide. Enforcement has tightened in parts of Bali in recent years, with unlicensed riders facing fines.
- Avoid riding at night on unlit rural roads, and avoid riding after drinking — a common cause of tourist accidents.
Why many visitors hire a car and driver
For anything beyond a short scooter hop, hiring a car with a driver for the day is the standard approach for visitors to Bali, and common in Java too. A driver typically costs a modest daily rate, knows the roads, handles the unfamiliar traffic conventions, and can wait at each stop while you explore — useful for a day covering several temples, waterfalls or viewpoints that would otherwise mean juggling parking and navigation yourself.
This is less about driving being impossible and more about the trade-off: self-driving a car in dense Balinese or Javanese traffic, on unfamiliar narrow roads with no real lane discipline, is stressful for many visitors in a way that hiring a driver simply removes. Drivers can be arranged through hotels, tour operators, or informally through recommendations — agree the day's itinerary, distance and price beforehand.
Self-driving a car
Self-drive car hire exists in Bali and on Java, and is a realistic option if you're already comfortable driving in dense, informally governed traffic — for example if you've driven elsewhere in South-East Asia. Roads in central and southern Bali (Denpasar, Kuta, Seminyak, Ubud) are congested for much of the day; the north and east of the island, and rural Java, are quieter but still require attention for potholes, unmarked speed bumps and pedestrians using the road as a footpath.
An IDP alongside your home licence is required for foreign drivers, and hire companies will generally ask to see it. As with scooters, confirm your travel insurance covers self-drive car use in Indonesia before relying on it.
Java: trains and cars together
Java is Indonesia's most populous island and has a far more developed intercity train network than Bali, connecting Jakarta, Yogyakarta, Surabaya and other major cities directly. Many visitors combine the train for longer intercity hops with a hired car and driver, or scooter, for exploring around each stop — Yogyakarta and the temples of Borobudur and Prambanut, for instance, are usually covered by day-hire car or driver rather than self-drive, given the density of Yogyakarta's city traffic.
Road conditions and hazards
Main roads connecting tourist centres are generally sealed and passable, though surface quality varies and can deteriorate quickly outside the main corridors. Watch for:
- Unmarked speed bumps in villages, often unlit at night.
- Livestock and dogs on rural roads, particularly around dusk.
- Sudden monsoon downpours during the wet season (roughly November to March), which can flood low-lying roads quickly.
- Volcanic ash or road closures near active volcanoes on Java and Bali, which occasionally affect routes with little notice — check local news if travelling near Mount Agung, Merapi or similar.
Fuel
Fuel is inexpensive and stations are common on main roads across Bali and Java; in more remote areas, small roadside stalls sell petrol in bottles at a premium when official stations are scarce — usable in a pinch but not ideal for an engine long-term. Fill up at proper stations where you can.
Frequently asked questions
Do I need an International Driving Permit to drive or ride in Indonesia?
Yes, in principle — foreign visitors are legally required to hold an IDP alongside their home licence to drive or ride a scooter, and it is increasingly checked, especially in Bali's tourist areas.
Is it safe to hire a scooter in Bali?
Scooters are convenient but carry real risk for inexperienced riders, and are a leading cause of tourist injuries in Bali. Wear a proper helmet, avoid riding at night or after drinking, and confirm your travel insurance covers it.
Should I hire a self-drive car or a car with a driver?
Most visitors — especially first-timers to Indonesian traffic — find a car with a driver far less stressful and not much more expensive. Self-driving suits those already confident with dense, informally governed traffic.
Which side of the road does Indonesia drive on?
The left, with right-hand-drive vehicles, the same convention as the UK, Australia and Japan.
Sources and further reading:
- Your government's travel advice for Indonesia — road safety and licence requirements.
- Indonesian Ministry of Tourism — official visitor information for Bali and Java.
- World Health Organization — road traffic injury guidance for travellers.