Jordan is one of the more approachable Middle Eastern countries to self-drive, with generally good roads, clear signage in English and Arabic, and manageable distances between its main sights. The main decision most visitors face is a choice between two very different roads running roughly parallel from Amman to the south — one fast, one full of history — and this guide covers that choice along with the practical rules you need to know.
The Desert Highway vs the King's Highway
The Desert Highway (Highway 15) is Jordan's main north-south motorway, running fast and mostly straight from Amman down through the eastern desert to Aqaba on the Red Sea, passing near Petra and Wadi Rum along the way. It's the quickest route between the country's main population centres and the south, with good surfacing and regular fuel stops, but it is also the least scenic option — flat, straight desert road for long stretches.
The King's Highway is the older, slower, far more dramatic alternative, following an ancient trade and pilgrimage route through the hill country west of the Desert Highway. It winds past Madaba's mosaics, the dramatic Karak Castle, the vast Wadi Mujib canyon, and Dana Nature Reserve before reaching Petra — a genuinely spectacular drive, but considerably slower, with tight curves and steep gradients that demand more attention and more time than the map distance suggests. Most visitors with the time to spare choose the King's Highway southbound and the Desert Highway on the return, or vice versa, to get the best of both.
Hiring a car and what you need
International rental companies operate at Queen Alia International Airport near Amman and in the city itself, and visiting drivers generally need a valid driving licence from their home country along with an International Driving Permit (IDP), which is worth arranging before you travel since options for obtaining one locally are limited. Roads in Jordan drive on the right, and most rental cars are manual transmission by default, so specify automatic in advance if you need one, as availability can be limited.
Fuel and distances
Fuel stations are frequent on the Desert Highway and around all major towns, but genuinely sparse along stretches of the King's Highway and in the far south beyond Wadi Rum, so fill up before setting off into any longer rural stretch rather than assuming the next station is close. Jordan is a compact country by regional standards — Amman to Aqaba is around 330 km via the Desert Highway — but journey times on the King's Highway or into areas like Wadi Rum's protected desert can take considerably longer than the distance alone suggests.
Checkpoints and driving culture
Police and military checkpoints are a routine part of driving in Jordan, particularly on approaches to Amman, the Dead Sea area, and near the borders. These are generally quick and straightforward — slow down, and be ready to show your passport and rental documents if asked. Jordanian driving style in cities, particularly Amman, can be assertive by the standards of quieter countries, with close following and less consistent lane discipline than many visitors are used to; rural roads and the Desert Highway are considerably calmer.
Where you can't (or shouldn't) drive yourself
Once you reach Wadi Rum, private vehicles are not permitted to roam the protected desert area independently — you leave your car at Wadi Rum Village and continue by 4x4 with a registered local driver. See our Amman to Wadi Rum guide for how that leg fits into a wider itinerary. Driving right up to and around Petra itself is straightforward, but the ancient city is explored on foot (or by donkey/horse for parts of it) once you arrive, not by car.
How driving compares to other options
For travellers who'd rather not drive, JETT, Jordan's main coach operator, covers the key tourist routes from Amman to Petra and other southern destinations — see our coaches in Africa guide for context on how regional coach networks work, and our route guides for specific journeys such as Amman to Wadi Rum. Private drivers and taxis are also widely used by visitors who want the flexibility of a car without navigating themselves, and are a common choice for the King's Highway detours in particular, since a local driver already knows the road well.
The Aqaba and Dead Sea roads
South of the King's Highway and Desert Highway junction near Petra, both roads eventually funnel toward Aqaba on the Red Sea, a straightforward final stretch on good road surface — the same corridor covered from a different angle in our Amman to Wadi Rum route guide. In the other direction, the road along the Dead Sea's eastern shore is a scenic, well-maintained route connecting Amman to the Dead Sea resorts and onward toward the southern desert, and is often combined with a King's Highway detour rather than driven as a separate trip. Fuel and rest stops are more frequent along this western corridor than on the remoter stretches further south and east.
Crossing into neighbouring countries by road
Jordan borders Israel/the West Bank, Syria and Saudi Arabia, and while land border crossings exist, rules change frequently depending on the current political situation, and not all are open to tourist traffic at any given time. If a land border crossing is part of your plan, check current status directly with your government's travel advice and Jordanian border authorities before you travel — don't assume a crossing that was open on a previous trip, or that you've read about online, is still operating. Our Middle East entry requirements guide covers the wider visa picture for the region, though land border operating status is a separate, faster-changing question you should verify closer to your travel date.
Frequently asked questions
Which is better, the Desert Highway or the King's Highway?
The Desert Highway is faster and more direct; the King's Highway is slower but considerably more scenic, passing Madaba, Karak Castle and Wadi Mujib. Many visitors combine both on a round trip.
Do I need an International Driving Permit to drive in Jordan?
Most visiting drivers need a valid IDP alongside their home licence. Arrange this before you travel, as it's simpler than trying to obtain one locally.
Can I drive myself into Wadi Rum?
Only as far as Wadi Rum Village. The protected desert area itself is accessed by 4x4 with a registered local Bedouin driver, not by private car.
Are Jordan's roads safe for visiting drivers?
Generally yes on the main highways, though city driving (especially in Amman) can be assertive, and rural roads should be avoided after dark due to livestock and limited lighting.
Sources and further reading:
- Regional transport context: The Man in Seat 61.
- Entry and border information: European Commission.