The Trollstigen — the Troll's Path — is one of the most spectacular mountain roads in Europe. Eleven tight hairpin bends climb a nearly vertical cliff face in western Norway's Romsdalen region, with a waterfall cascading down the rock beside the road and views that stretch across the valley far below. It is a seasonal road, closed by snow for much of the year, and reaching it requires some planning — but those who time it right remember it for a long time.
What is the Trollstigen?
The Trollstigen is a mountain pass road connecting the village of Valldal to the south with Åndalsnes to the north, forming part of Norwegian Scenic Route 63. The road was opened in 1936 after eight years of construction — an extraordinary feat given the terrain — and climbs roughly 850 metres in a short distance, with an average gradient of around 9% and sections steeper than that on the hairpins themselves.
At the top of the pass sits a modern visitor centre with a cantilevered viewing platform that juts out over the valley below. The view from here — down to the hairpins, the river, and the Romsdalen valley — is one of the most photographed in Norway. The Stigfossen waterfall drops 320 metres beside the road and is visible throughout much of the ascent; in high summer, the spray sometimes reaches the road itself.
When the Trollstigen is open
The Trollstigen is a seasonal road, typically open from late May to October, depending on snowfall. The exact opening date varies year to year — in a heavy snow year, it may not open until June. It closes again in autumn when the first serious snowfall makes the hairpins impassable.
Norwegian authorities (Statens vegvesen) announce the opening date in spring, and the road's status is updated on their website and the Norwegian Scenic Routes portal. Do not assume it will be open simply because it is summer — always check the current status before planning a visit around it.
Check before you go: The Trollstigen opening date changes every year. Roads in Norway can close at short notice due to rock fall, flooding or sudden snowfall even in summer. Check conditions at vegvesen.no or nordsiden.no before travelling.
Driving the road
The Trollstigen is a single-track road for much of its length — two vehicles cannot pass side by side on the hairpins. Traffic is managed by a one-way flow system on the steepest sections, with passing places at each bend. In practice, drivers need to take it slowly, yield confidently and use the passing places without hesitation. The road is entirely manageable in an ordinary car, but it is not suitable for large motorhomes, caravans or long vehicles — restrictions on vehicle length apply, and this is enforced.
Approaching from the south (Valldal side), the climb feels more gradual and the views open progressively. From the north (Åndalsnes side), the descent is steeper initially and the drop to the valley below is more immediately dramatic. Many drivers do both directions to experience the road from each perspective, which is perfectly possible by looping around via the valley roads.
Crowds are significant in July and early August, when the visitor centre car park fills quickly and queues form at the one-way sections. Arriving early in the morning — before 9 am — or later in the afternoon after the coach tours have moved on gives a much calmer experience. Parking at the top is free but limited; overflow parking exists on the approach road.
The visitor centre
The Trollstigen Nasjonale Turistanlegg at the top of the pass was designed by the Norwegian architectural practice Reiulf Ramstad and is a notable building in its own right — a series of walkways, bridges and platforms built into the clifftop without obscuring the natural landscape. There are toilets, a café and a small exhibition about the road's construction. The main platform extends over the void with the full sweep of Stigfossen below and the valley beyond. Entry to the viewing area is free.
Combining Trollstigen with a broader itinerary
The Trollstigen sits on Norwegian Scenic Route 63, one of the 18 official National Scenic Routes in Norway. The full Route 63 runs from Åndalsnes southward through the Geiranger area, making a natural circuit possible: drive the Trollstigen, continue south to the Geirangerfjord viewpoint at Dalsnibba or the Eagle Road above the fjord, and loop back via ferry.
Åndalsnes, to the north, is also the terminus of the Rauma Railway — one of Norway's most dramatic train journeys, descending from Dombås through the Romsdalen valley past Trollveggen. Combining the train and the road gives two very different perspectives on the same extraordinary landscape. See our guide to the Rauma Railway for detail on the train route.
For general advice on driving in Norway — toll roads, tunnel tolls, the AutoPASS system and fjord road etiquette — see our guide to driving in Norway.
The Atlantic Ocean Road as an alternative
If you are touring western Norway's coastal roads more broadly, the Atlantic Ocean Road (Atlanterhavsvegen) further north near Molde is another of Norway's great scenic drives — a series of causeways and bridges over skerries and open sea. The two roads make a natural pairing on a western Norway road trip. See our guide to the Atlantic Ocean Road for that route.
Frequently asked questions
When does the Trollstigen open each year?
Typically late May to mid-June, depending on the snowpack, with closure again in October or November. The exact date varies and is announced by Statens vegvesen. Always check the official status before planning your trip around it.
Can I drive a motorhome or caravan on the Trollstigen?
No. The Trollstigen has vehicle length and width restrictions that exclude caravans and larger motorhomes. The hairpin bends physically cannot accommodate long or wide vehicles. Smaller campervans within the weight and length limits may be permitted — check current restrictions on the official Norwegian road authority site.
Is the Trollstigen road free to use?
There is no toll to drive the Trollstigen itself. Norway's AutoPASS toll system applies to other roads and tunnels in the area, but the Trollstigen pass road is not tolled. Parking at the visitor centre is free but limited.
How long does it take to drive the Trollstigen?
The actual ascent or descent takes about 20–30 minutes of driving time, depending on traffic and how often you stop. Allow at least an hour or two at the top to use the viewing platform and café, longer if you want to walk any of the nearby paths.
Sources and further reading:
- Road status and opening dates: Statens vegvesen (vegvesen.no).
- Norwegian National Scenic Routes: visitnorway.com / nasjonaleturistveger.no.