The Amalfi Coast's single road is narrow, cliff-hung and jammed with traffic for most of the day in high season — genuinely one of the last places in Italy you'd want to self-drive. The good news is you don't need to: a combination of SITA buses along the coast road and local ferries between the towns covers the whole coast comfortably, and going without a car actually makes for a more relaxed week, not a more limited one. Here's how to base yourself and string a week together using public transport alone.
Choosing a base
Rather than moving hotels every night or two — a genuine hassle on a coast where luggage and steep steps don't mix — pick one base and day-trip from it. Sorrento, technically just outside the Amalfi Coast proper on the other side of the peninsula, is the easiest base logistically: it has direct train access from Naples, a full range of accommodation and budget levels, and frequent ferry and bus links onward to the coast towns. Positano or Amalfi town put you right in the middle of the coast itself, which cuts down daily travel time but comes at higher accommodation prices and, in Positano's case, a notably steep walk between the bus stop, the ferry dock and most hotels. For a first visit balancing cost, ease and views, Sorrento is the pragmatic choice; for immersion in the coast itself, Amalfi town is a good middle ground between Positano's prices and Sorrento's distance.
Getting to the coast without a car
Fly into Naples and take the train to Sorrento — the Circumvesuviana regional line runs directly from Naples Centrale to Sorrento in a little over an hour, calling at Pompeii on the way, which makes an easy add-on day trip either before or after your Amalfi week. From Sorrento, both the SITA bus and summer ferries fan out along the coast; there's no need for a car at any point in this itinerary. See our Rome to Naples route guide if you're arriving via Rome first rather than flying directly into Naples, and our wider Italy by train and ferry guide if this week is part of a longer Italian trip.
SITA buses: the coast's backbone
The SITA Sud bus service runs the length of the Amalfi Coast road between Sorrento, Positano, Amalfi, Ravello (via a connecting bus at Amalfi) and Salerno, with departures roughly every 30 to 60 minutes depending on the season and time of day. The road itself is the main event: hairpin bends, sea views the whole way, and a driver who has clearly done this exact route many thousands of times. Buy tickets in advance from a tabacchi (tobacconist) or newsstand before boarding — they aren't sold on board — and validate them once you get on.
Ferries: faster and calmer, when they're running
From roughly April to October, local ferry operators run services connecting Sorrento, Positano, Amalfi, Salerno and Capri, offering a genuinely more comfortable alternative to the bus — no traffic, sea views from the water rather than a cliff-edge road, and journey times that are often shorter for the longer hops. Ferries are especially worth using for the Sorrento–Positano and Amalfi–Salerno legs, and for the essential Capri day trip. Outside the main season, ferry frequency drops substantially and some routes stop running altogether, so check current schedules if you're travelling in shoulder season or winter rather than assuming the boats will be there.
A suggested week
- Day 1: Arrive in Sorrento, settle in, wander the historic centre and the clifftop gardens above the marina.
- Day 2: Ferry or bus to Positano for the day — the town is essentially a single steep street of shops and viewpoints down to the beach, best absorbed slowly with a stop for lunch on the way back up.
- Day 3: Bus to Amalfi town, exploring the cathedral and the compact centre, then a short onward bus up to Ravello for its gardens and famously wide sea views from the Villa Cimbrone terrace.
- Day 4: Ferry to Capri for the day — the Blue Grotto, Anacapri and the chairlift up Monte Solaro are the highlights; book the funicular and any grotto boat trip early in the day, since both get crowded quickly.
- Day 5: The Path of the Gods (Sentiero degli Dei), a well-marked coastal hiking trail between Bomerano and Positano with some of the best views on the entire coast — reachable by bus to the trailhead and finishing with a bus or ferry back from Positano.
- Day 6: A slower day back around Sorrento, or a return visit to whichever town you liked best, plus the Sorrento peninsula's own quieter coves.
- Day 7: Train back to Naples, with time for Pompeii en route if you didn't stop on the way in.
Booking and timing
Book Amalfi Coast accommodation well ahead regardless of season — the coast's bed stock is genuinely limited relative to demand, especially in Positano. Late spring (May–June) and early autumn (September–October) offer the best balance of good weather, running ferries and noticeably thinner crowds than July and August, when both the road and the coastal towns feel close to capacity. See our guide to avoiding the crowds for the wider principle of timing a visit to a famously busy destination like this one. If you're extending the trip by sea, our Mediterranean by ferry and train guide covers the onward ferry options from southern Italy toward Greece and Croatia, and our week in Italy by train itinerary shows how to combine a Milan-to-Naples rail trip with an Amalfi extension.
Frequently asked questions
Is it really better to skip a car on the Amalfi Coast?
For most visitors, yes. The coast road is narrow, congested for much of the day in season, and parking in each town is scarce and expensive. SITA buses and ferries cover the same route without the stress of driving it yourself, and let you enjoy the views instead of watching the road.
Do I need to book SITA bus tickets in advance?
You don't book a seat, but you do need to buy your ticket before boarding — from a tabacchi or newsstand near the bus stop — since drivers don't sell tickets on board. Buy a few in advance if you know you'll need several over the coming days.
How many days should I spend in each town?
Positano, Amalfi and Ravello are all comfortably covered as day trips from a single base rather than requiring an overnight stay each, which is what makes basing yourself in one place and moving by bus or ferry so practical for a week-long visit.
Do ferries run all year on the Amalfi Coast?
No. Most local ferry routes operate from roughly April to October, with services reduced or suspended in the winter months. If you're travelling outside that window, plan around the SITA bus as your main option and check ferry schedules before relying on them.
Sources and further reading:
- Bus timetables and tickets: SITA Sud (sitasudtrasporti.it).
- Ferry schedules: check current operator websites for the season you're travelling, as routes and frequency change year to year.
- Train to Sorrento: Circumvesuviana / EAV (eavsrl.it).