Travelling India overland by train and bus is one of the great journeys the world still offers — not just as a way of getting from place to place, but as an immersion in the subcontinent itself. The Indian Railways network is one of the largest and most used in the world, and a long train journey across India — especially in a sleeper class, overnight, with the landscape changing through the dark and chai vendors calling at every dawn station — is something that stays with a traveller for years.
Why the train is the backbone of slow travel in India
India's rail network connects virtually every city and a vast number of towns, running more than 13,000 trains a day across a route network of some 67,000 km. For the slow traveller, it is the default mode: affordable, surprisingly comfortable in the right class, and deeply social. The train is where India converses, eats, argues, sleeps and arrives.
The great routes — Delhi to Mumbai, Chennai to Kolkata, Delhi to Jaipur, the overnight Rajdhani Expresses, the legendary long-haul services across the Deccan — are experiences in their own right. The Vivek Express, running from Dibrugarh in the far northeast to Kanyakumari at the southern tip, covers over 4,200 km and takes roughly 82–83 hours — the longest train journey in India by distance. Most slow travellers, however, stitch together a series of more manageable overnight legs of 8–14 hours, waking up in a new city.
Understanding the booking system
Indian Railways reservations open 120 days in advance via the IRCTC website and app (Indian Railway Catering and Tourism Corporation). Foreign travellers can book on IRCTC with an international card and a foreign-tourist quota, which sets aside seats that open much later — often within a few days of travel — specifically for non-residents. This is genuinely useful when popular trains appear sold out months ahead.
The IRCTC system requires registration, which can take a day or two to verify. It is worth completing this well before you arrive in India. Alternatively, many guesthouses and travel agents in India can book tickets on your behalf for a small fee.
Waitlists: Indian Railways operates an elaborate waitlist system. A waitlisted ticket often does confirm before departure — but not always. If you have a fixed onward flight or event, either book well ahead or confirm your waitlist status is moving up as departure approaches.
Which class should you travel in?
The class system on Indian Railways is more nuanced than in most countries, but the most relevant options for long-distance slow travellers are:
- Sleeper Class (SL): The most popular and affordable overnight option — open bays of six berths, no air conditioning, windows that open, and an intense cross-section of Indian life. Basic but perfectly usable on cooler nights or in the hills. Bring your own sheet or buy one.
- AC 3-Tier (3A): Air-conditioned, six berths per bay (three each side), curtains, bedding provided. The sweet spot for most international visitors — comfortable, reasonably priced and still very social.
- AC 2-Tier (2A): Air-conditioned, four berths per bay, more privacy, slightly better bedding. A step up in comfort and price.
- AC 1st Class (1A): Lockable compartments, two or four berths. The most comfortable and the most expensive — still far cheaper than equivalent Western rail travel.
- AC Chair Car (CC): Reclining seats for day journeys on faster trains such as the Shatabdi Express. Fine for journeys under 5–6 hours.
For most slow travellers doing multi-day or multi-night journeys, AC 3-Tier (3A) is the default recommendation: the balance of comfort, sociability and price is hard to beat. Sleeper Class gives you a deeper immersion in Indian travel and is perfectly manageable in the right season and region.
Key long-distance routes to consider
There is no single "right" route across India — it depends entirely on your itinerary. Some of the most celebrated journeys for slow travellers include:
- Delhi to Jaisalmer (overnight, about 14–16 hours on the Jaisalmer Express) — arriving in the desert city at dawn is a classic India arrival.
- Mumbai to Goa (overnight, about 9–12 hours depending on the service, through the Western Ghats on the Konkan Railway — some of the most beautiful rail scenery in the country).
- Chennai to Mysuru or Bengaluru — shorter day services through southern India's lush Carnatic countryside.
- Kolkata to Varanasi (overnight, about 12 hours) — a classic trans-subcontinental leg connecting two of India's most layered cities.
- Delhi to Varanasi and onward to Kolkata — a core east-west spine that forms the backbone of many extended overland trips.
See our guide to travelling India by train for more detail on routes, the IRCTC system and regional tips.
The role of buses in overland travel
Buses fill in the gaps that trains cannot reach — hill stations, small heritage towns, cross-border state routes and destinations without a railway station. Services range from state-run buses (cheap, crowded, basic) to private overnight Volvo coaches (air-conditioned, semi-reclining, significantly more comfortable). KSRTC in Karnataka, MSRTC in Maharashtra and similar state corporations run the backbone of regional connectivity; private operators handle popular tourist routes.
Private Volvo-class overnight coaches are the bus equivalent of a sleeper train for mountain and coastal routes: popular for journeys like Bengaluru to Goa, Manali to Leh (seasonal), and Shimla to Delhi. Book via redBus (the main aggregator in India) or at local bus stands.
For travel to Ladakh, Spiti, or other Himalayan regions, buses and jeep-shared vehicles are often the only option during the brief open season. This kind of slow travel — bouncing over passes on a high-altitude road, sharing a seat with local herders — is unforgettable and requires a different kind of preparation than a city-to-city sleeper.
For a practical rundown of coach travel across India, see our guide to long-distance buses in India.
Practical matters
Indian Railways stations can be large, noisy and complex. Finding your train carriage is easier with the IRCTC app, which shows your coach number and berth — and each carriage is physically marked on the platform. On long overnight trains, food is available from pantry cars or hawkers at stations; quality varies but it is very much part of the experience.
Carry a small padlock for the Sleeper and 3AC classes — a chain under the berth lets you lock luggage to the bar below the seat. Keep valuables close. The vast majority of train journeys in India pass without incident, but the padlock gives you peace of mind for overnight legs.
Book return or onward trains as early as possible. Popular routes — especially Rajasthan in winter, Goa in December and trains around major festivals like Diwali and Holi — fill months ahead.
The spirit of it
The best thing about slow travel across India by train is the time it creates: time to watch the landscape shift from plains to plateau to coast, to share food with the family in the opposite berth, to arrive in a new city with the smell of morning chai already in the air. India's trains do not just move you across a map — they deliver you into the country's interior in a way no flight ever can. The long-distance train is still how most Indians travel, and being part of that — at your own pace, across your own route — is one of the most rewarding things an overland journey can offer.
Frequently asked questions
Do I need to book Indian train tickets in advance?
For popular routes, especially overnight trains and long-distance services, booking as early as possible is strongly advised. IRCTC opens reservations 120 days ahead. The foreign-tourist quota can be a useful fallback for trains that appear sold out.
What is the best class for a long overnight journey in India?
AC 3-Tier (3A) is the most popular choice for international slow travellers — air-conditioned, six berths per bay, bedding included, and genuinely comfortable for overnight journeys of 8–14 hours. Sleeper Class is cheaper and more immersive but can be very warm in summer.
Can I travel across India entirely by train?
Very nearly. Indian Railways reaches most major cities and many smaller destinations. A few hill areas (Ladakh, parts of the Northeast) require buses or jeep taxis for the final stretch, but the rail network handles the vast majority of overland travel.
How do I book Indian train tickets as a foreign visitor?
Register on the IRCTC website (irctc.co.in) before arrival — it requires a mobile number that can receive Indian OTPs, so you may need a local SIM or a workaround. Once registered, international cards generally work. Many guesthouses and travel agents in India can also book for a small commission.
Sources and further reading:
- Booking and schedules: IRCTC (irctc.co.in) — the official Indian Railways reservation portal.
- Route research and seat classes: The Man in Seat 61 (seat61.com) — excellent independent India rail guide.
- Bus aggregator for private coaches: redBus (redbus.in).
- Ministry of Railways India (indianrailways.gov.in) for network information.