Ireland has a train and bus network that is perfectly adequate for reaching its major cities and towns, and thoroughly impractical for some of its most beautiful corners — which, perversely, is part of the charm of slow travel here. Moving through Ireland at ground speed means discovering that the country's character is in the journey as much as the destination: the conversation on the bus west to Galway, the Bantry Bay coast glimpsed from a window, the way the light changes as you head south from Dublin into Cork.
Getting to Ireland: the ferry option
Ireland is an island, but it need not require flying. Ferries connect it to the British mainland and directly to France:
- Holyhead to Dublin (Stena Line, Irish Ferries) — the main crossing, around 3h15 on the fast craft or 3h30 on the conventional ferry. Regular sailings throughout the day. A quick train from London Euston to Holyhead (around three hours) sets up a full London–Dublin corridor without flying.
- Pembroke to Rosslare or Fishguard to Rosslare (Stena Line, Irish Ferries) — useful for approaching from South Wales.
- Cairnryan to Belfast (Stena Line, P&O Ferries) — the Scottish crossing, about 2h15 on the fast ferry. A good entry point for an island-wide itinerary starting in Northern Ireland.
- Cherbourg or Roscoff to Rosslare (Brittany Ferries, Irish Ferries) — the direct France-to-Ireland crossing, taking around 18 hours from Cherbourg or around 18–20 hours from Roscoff. An overnight ferry option that skips Britain entirely.
For anyone travelling from mainland Europe, the France–Ireland crossing is a satisfying way to arrive, particularly with a cabin booked for the overnight passage.

The Irish rail network
Irish Rail (Iarnród Éireann) operates all train services in the Republic of Ireland. The network radiates from Dublin Heuston (for Cork, Limerick, Galway, Westport, Waterford and Tralee) and Dublin Connolly (for Belfast, Sligo, Rosslare Europort and Dundalk). The DART is Dublin's coastal commuter rail, running from Malahide in the north to Greystones in the south along the bay.
Journey times on the main lines:
- Dublin to Cork: about 2h30–2h45 on the Cork Express (several times a day)
- Dublin to Galway: about 2h15 by rail (via Athlone)
- Dublin to Belfast: about 2h on the Enterprise service (jointly operated with Translink NI)
- Dublin to Limerick: about 2h
- Dublin to Tralee: around 3h30–4h (with a change at Mallow in some cases)
Booking in advance generally secures lower fares; walk-up fares can be significantly more expensive. The Irish Rail app and website handle bookings efficiently.
Bus Éireann and the wider bus network
Bus Éireann is the national coach operator and reaches many places the train doesn't. From Galway, buses go west to Clifden and south along the coast; from Cork, buses extend to West Cork and the Beara Peninsula; the 350 series routes connect rural towns that are entirely off the rail map.
GoBus and FlixBus also operate on the main intercity corridors (Dublin–Cork, Dublin–Galway, Dublin–Limerick) and are often cheaper than rail, taking slightly longer. Expressway coaches are comfortable for longer journeys.
For truly rural areas — the Dingle Peninsula, the Aran Islands, the far west of Connemara — local community buses and the occasional private hire tend to be the only realistic options without a car.
The west: what rail and bus can reach
The west coast of Ireland is where most visitors want to end up, and it takes a little more planning to reach it without a car:
- Galway is well-served by both train (from Dublin) and buses. From Galway city, buses go to Clifden in Connemara and to Salthill. The Wild Atlantic Way begins to the south of Galway.
- The Aran Islands — off the Galway coast — are reached by ferry from Rossaveal (bus transfer from Galway city) or Doolin in County Clare. Inis Mór, the largest, has bicycle hire and limited bus transport.
- Killarney is on the rail line from Cork, making it the most accessible gateway to Kerry. Local buses connect to the Ring of Kerry villages (though slowly and infrequently).
- Dingle is reachable by bus from Tralee (which is on the rail network), though services are limited and the last bus back can be early.
Northern Ireland
Northern Ireland uses a different rail operator (Translink NI Railways) and a different currency (sterling), though the two networks connect at Belfast. The Enterprise service between Dublin Connolly and Belfast Lanyon Place runs several times a day and takes about two hours. From Belfast, trains run to Derry/Londonderry (about 2h), Bangor, Larne and other towns. The Causeway Coast — the Giant's Causeway and the coastal road — is accessible by Translink bus from Coleraine and Belfast.
Slow travel tips for Ireland
- Allow more time than you think. Rural buses are infrequent and timetables change seasonally.
- The TFI Leap Card covers public transport in Dublin and some other cities; Irish Rail has its own fare system for intercity travel.
- Tourist rail passes (IrishRail Explorer tickets) can be good value for multi-day travel by train across the Republic.
- The Local Link rural transport programme connects many villages that Bus Éireann doesn't reach — it runs by reservation in some areas but is often the only option short of a taxi.
Frequently asked questions
Can I travel from London to Ireland without flying?
Yes. The most common route is train from London Euston to Holyhead (about three hours), then Stena Line or Irish Ferries ferry to Dublin (about 3h15 on the fast craft). Total journey time is around seven to eight hours, including transfers. Overnight sailings are available and allow you to sleep through the crossing.
Is there a train along the west coast of Ireland?
Not a coastal route as such. The rail line reaches Galway, Westport and Ballina in the northwest and Tralee in the southwest, but the celebrated west coast scenery — the Wild Atlantic Way — is largely accessed by bus, bike or car. Local buses and occasional community transport services extend further.
How do I get from Dublin to the Cliffs of Moher without a car?
Several tour buses depart Dublin daily for the Cliffs of Moher; some also serve Galway and the Burren. Alternatively, take the train to Ennis (change at Limerick Junction) or bus to Galway, then local bus or organised day tour to the Cliffs. It takes planning but is manageable without a car.
What is the Enterprise service?
The Enterprise is the cross-border intercity service between Dublin Connolly and Belfast Lanyon Place, jointly operated by Irish Rail and Translink. It runs about eight times a day in each direction and takes around two hours. Seat reservations are recommended at busy periods.
Sources and further reading:
- Irish Rail timetables and booking: irishrail.ie.
- Bus Éireann national bus services: buseireann.ie.
- Translink NI Railways: translink.co.uk.
- Ferries from Britain: Stena Line, Irish Ferries, P&O Ferries.
- France to Ireland ferries: Brittany Ferries, Irish Ferries.
- Local Link rural transport: locallink.ie.
