The Isles of Scilly lie 45 km off the tip of Cornwall, closer to the French coast than to London, and they are reached in just two ways: by sea on the Scillonian IV passenger ferry from Penzance, or by air on Skybus from Land's End, Newquay or Exeter. Neither option takes very long, but they feel worlds apart — and for most visitors, the choice between them defines how the journey begins.
The Scillonian IV: by sea from Penzance
The Scillonian IV, operated by Isles of Scilly Travel (part of the Isles of Scilly Steamship Group), has been connecting Penzance with St Mary's — the largest and only inhabited main island — since the 1970s. The crossing covers roughly 45 km and takes approximately 2 hours 45 minutes in each direction.
Departures from Penzance are typically in the morning, arriving at St Mary's in time for lunch. The return from St Mary's leaves in the afternoon and is back in Penzance by early evening. This schedule means the ferry is a day-trip option (just about) but works far better as a one-way crossing at the start and end of a longer stay.
What the crossing is like
The stretch of water between Cornwall and Scilly — particularly the notorious Wolf Rock area — can be lively. The Atlantic swell hits the Scillonian side-on rather than head-on, which produces a rolling motion that affects some passengers more than others. On a calm summer's day the crossing is a genuine pleasure, with gannets, guillemots and occasional dolphins alongside and the islands slowly taking shape ahead. On a rougher day it can be uncomfortable, and some passengers are sick.
Come prepared: bring seasickness medication and take it before you leave the quay, not when you already feel unwell. The Scillonian is not a large ship — it carries under 500 passengers — and the open-air deck is the best place to be if the sea is at all choppy, with fresh air and a visible horizon.
Cancellations and weather: the Scillonian IV does get cancelled in severe weather, though this is relatively rare in the main operating season (March to October). If you have a fixed return flight or train from Penzance, leave a buffer day. If the sea is calm and you have time on the islands, a last-minute ticket upgrade to the Scillonian at the end of your trip is a lovely way to travel back.
The Scillonian: practical details
- The ferry is foot-passenger only — no cars, motorcycles or bicycles over a certain size. There is very limited luggage storage on the islands and heavy bags complicate things; pack light or use the luggage transfer service from Penzance.
- Penzance Quay is the embarkation point, a short walk or taxi from Penzance train station. Trains from London Paddington reach Penzance in approximately 5–6 hours, making the whole journey achievable in a long day if you need to.
- The operating season is broadly March to October. The ferry does not run in winter; air is the only option in the off-season.
- Book in advance for summer sailings — July and August can sell out, particularly around school holidays. The booking system for both the ferry and Skybus is managed by Isles of Scilly Travel.
Skybus: by air from Land's End, Newquay or Exeter
Skybus, also operated by the Isles of Scilly Steamship Group, flies small aircraft (typically Twin Otter or BN Islander) from three mainland airports:
- Land's End Airport: the closest to the islands, with a flight of roughly 15–20 minutes. It is a tiny airstrip at the very end of Cornwall, and the approach over the sea is dramatic. Land's End is well placed if you have your own car to park, though parking costs add up over a week.
- Newquay Airport: a slightly larger airport with more connections, including flights from several UK cities. The Skybus hop to Scilly from Newquay takes around 30 minutes.
- Exeter Airport: the most easterly option, best if you are coming from Devon or want to combine the Scilly visit with a West Country road trip. Flying time is around 60–70 minutes.
Luggage allowances on Skybus are very tight — typically around 15 kg of hold baggage plus a small personal item. The planes are small and every kilogram counts. Travel light and you will have no problems; show up with an overpacked case and there will be a conversation at check-in.
Which to choose: ferry or Skybus?
The two options suit different travellers and different trips:
- The Scillonian ferry is the experience — arriving by sea, watching the islands appear, seeing St Mary's harbour from the water. It is slower and potentially rocky, but it is the way most people have always come and it gives you a proper sense of the journey.
- Skybus is faster, unaffected by sea conditions, available year-round, and better for anyone prone to seasickness. The luggage restrictions are a genuine constraint though, particularly for families or anyone staying more than a few days.
- Many visitors combine the two: Scillonian one way, Skybus the other. This works well and lets you have both experiences without committing your stomach to two sea crossings.
The islands themselves
The Isles of Scilly consist of five inhabited islands — St Mary's, Tresco, St Martin's, Bryher and St Agnes — plus scores of uninhabited rocky outcrops. Inter-island travel is by small boat (open "tripper" boats run by local boatmen), and this internal network of short crossings is part of the charm. You can island-hop freely across all five inhabited islands in a week without feeling rushed.
The islands are famous for their mild Atlantic climate (warmer winters and springs than much of Britain), extraordinary clear-water beaches, and almost total absence of cars on most islands. St Mary's has some roads and a handful of taxis and hire cars; the other islands are explored on foot or by bicycle. The pace is slow by design.
The Scilly islands are in England and the usual UK entry rules apply. No ferry from the mainland carries cars — this is a point worth remembering if you have driven to Penzance and are used to arriving somewhere with your vehicle.
When to go
The peak season is broadly June to early September, when the weather is warmest and all the boat services operate most frequently. The islands can feel genuinely busy in July and August — not overcrowded, but accommodation books up early and the inter-island boats can be full at peak times. May and September are often the best compromise: good weather, fewer visitors, and the spring flowers (which have made Scilly famous among gardeners) at their best in the earlier month.
Frequently asked questions
How long does the Scillonian ferry take from Penzance to Scilly?
The crossing takes approximately 2 hours 45 minutes each way. The ferry departs Penzance in the morning and returns from St Mary's in the afternoon.
Can I take a car to the Isles of Scilly?
No. The Scillonian is a foot-passenger-only ferry and no ferry carries cars to the islands. Most visitors leave their car in Penzance or at one of the mainland airports and travel without a vehicle. Most of the inhabited islands have few or no cars in any case.
Does the Scillonian run in winter?
No. The Scillonian IV typically operates from March to October. In winter the only way to reach the islands is by Skybus, which flies year-round from Land's End.
Is the crossing to Scilly rough?
It can be, particularly when a westerly swell is running. The Scillonian's rolling motion affects some passengers more than others. Seasickness remedies taken before departure help significantly, and the open deck with fresh air and a visible horizon is easier than being below.
Sources and further reading:
- Ferry and flight booking: Isles of Scilly Travel (islesofscilly-travel.co.uk).
- Ferry booking guidance: booking ferries explained.
- Official island information: visitislesofscilly.com.