The Glacier Express runs between St Moritz and Zermatt over about eight hours, crossing 291 bridges, passing through 91 tunnels and climbing to more than 2,000 metres above sea level. It is marketed as "the world's slowest express train" — a deliberate joke — and the pace is entirely the point. No other single train journey gives you such a sustained view of the Swiss Alps in a single day.
The route and what you will see
The train runs between St Moritz (or nearby Davos, via a connecting service) in the east and Zermatt in the west, or in the reverse direction. It takes approximately 7h45 to 8h30, depending on the specific service and whether you join from Davos. Most people travel west to east or east to west as a one-way trip; a return the same day is impractical and would miss the point.
The highlights of the journey, roughly west to east from Zermatt:
- Matter valley — the climb out of Zermatt begins through a narrow gorge before the valley opens.
- Goms valley — a wide Alpine valley with characteristic wooden villages.
- Oberalp Pass — at 2,033 metres, the highest point of the main Swiss rail network. In winter it is snowbound and bleak; in summer it is surrounded by summer pasture.
- Andermatt — a mountain town in the Uri Alps, a useful stopover if breaking the journey.
- Rhine Gorge — the train descends into what is sometimes called the Swiss Grand Canyon, the wild gorge of the Vorderrhein river, with pale limestone walls and vertiginous drops.
- Chur — the capital of Graubünden and an optional stopping point.
- Albula valley and Engadine — the final section to St Moritz traverses the Albula, another UNESCO World Heritage railway section, with a series of spiral tunnels that gain height in a remarkably compact distance.
Panoramic carriages: what they are and why they matter
The Glacier Express uses panoramic carriages with unusually large curved windows that extend into the roofline. These are what make the views possible — ordinary train windows cut off the top of the mountains and the sky. The panoramic cars are the right way to experience this journey, and they are part of what the reservation fee covers.
The trains are operated by a consortium of narrow-gauge railways — Matterhorn Gotthard Bahn in the west and Rhaetian Railway in the east — on metre-gauge track. The carriages are maintained to a high standard and the ride, despite the age of some of the infrastructure, is smooth and quiet.
Booking the Glacier Express
Tickets and reservations can be booked through the official Glacier Express website or through Swiss Federal Railways (SBB). The booking has two parts:
- The rail ticket — or, if you hold an Interrail or Eurail pass, this part is covered by the pass.
- The panoramic car reservation — mandatory and not covered by any rail pass. The reservation fee varies by season (higher in summer, lower in winter) and must be paid regardless of your ticket type.
If you hold a rail pass, you still need to purchase the reservation. Book it at the same time as your pass or as early as possible — Glacier Express panoramic cars sell out months ahead in summer. See the seat reservations guide for pass reservation logistics across Switzerland and Europe.
Seats can be selected during booking. For advice on the best side of the train for views, the booking site provides suggestions — in general, views are dramatic on both sides at different points, but the Rhine Gorge section favours the left side travelling eastbound.
The dining experience
A notable feature of the Glacier Express is its dining car and the special tilted wine glass designed for the steep gradients. The dining service has evolved over the years; currently there are options for a multi-course meal in the dining car, a served meal at your panoramic seat, or a more modest refreshment service depending on the class you book. First class includes a more elaborate meal experience. Booking a meal in advance is recommended for the seated dining service.
The food is decent by train standards and the ceremony of eating a three-course meal while crossing the Oberalp Pass in January snow is hard to replicate elsewhere. This is part of what you are paying for.
Best time to go
The Glacier Express runs year-round, and each season is genuinely different:
- Summer (June to September): Peak season. Alpine meadows in flower, clear skies, maximum daylight. The most popular and most expensive time. Book several months ahead.
- Autumn (October to November): Quieter, slightly lower prices, spectacular golden larch forests. A very good time to go.
- Winter (December to March): Snow on every mountain, frozen lakes, a genuinely arctic feel at the Oberalp Pass. The most dramatic visually, and the cheapest. The train is less crowded and the reservation fees are lower. Note some stops may be limited in winter schedules.
- Spring (April to May): The high passes are often still snowy, lower valleys turning green. A good shoulder-season choice.
Combining the Glacier Express with other Swiss journeys
St Moritz connects onward to the Bernina Express (south over the Alps to Tirano in Italy), making a multi-day Alpine circuit possible — Zermatt → St Moritz by Glacier Express, then St Moritz → Italy by Bernina, with an overnight somewhere in the Engadine. For the broader context of Europe's scenic railways, see the Europe's most scenic railways guide.
Zermatt itself is a car-free village below the Matterhorn — the train is the only way in. If you are splitting the journey, Andermatt makes a pleasant overnight stop roughly in the middle.
Frequently asked questions
How long does the Glacier Express take?
The full journey from Zermatt to St Moritz (or vice versa) takes approximately 7h45 to 8h30 depending on the service. It is a full day on a train — which is the idea. Partial journeys are possible if you want to join or leave at intermediate stops like Andermatt, Chur or Disentis.
Do I need a reservation for the Glacier Express?
Yes, a reservation for the panoramic car is mandatory and must be paid by all passengers, including those with Interrail or Eurail passes. The reservation is separate from the rail ticket and covers your specific seat in the panoramic car.
What is the best time of year to travel the Glacier Express?
Summer is the most popular and the most expensive. Winter offers the most dramatic snow scenery at lower prices and with fewer crowds. Autumn is arguably the sweet spot: good weather, lower prices and quieter carriages, with golden autumn colours in the lower valleys.
Is the Glacier Express suitable for children?
Yes, and it tends to hold children's attention better than many long train journeys because the scenery changes constantly. Swiss Family Cards (for families travelling with children) can reduce the fare significantly — worth checking if you are travelling as a family.
Sources and further reading:
- Official booking and timetables: Glacier Express (glacierexpress.ch) and SBB (Swiss Federal Railways).
- Route detail and traveller tips: The Man in Seat 61.
- Pass and reservation information: Interrail, Eurail.