The Bernina Express is one of the most celebrated train journeys in the world. Running across the Swiss Alps from Chur (or Davos) to the Italian town of Tirano through the narrow valleys of the Graubünden canton, it climbs to nearly 2,300 metres, crosses stone viaducts, loops back on itself through spiral tunnels and descends through palm trees into the Italian lakes — all without a single metre of rack-and-pinion track. It is both a UNESCO World Heritage Site and, on a clear day, an utterly extraordinary two and a half hours of travel.
The route in brief
The Bernina Express is a panoramic tourist train run by Rhaetian Railway (RhB) along the Albula and Bernina lines — two of Switzerland's most dramatic mountain railways. The classic full journey runs from Chur or Davos to Tirano in northern Italy, stopping at St Moritz (where the Albula and Bernina lines meet) along the way.
If you are travelling from the west, you can start in Chur; from the north, Davos is convenient. Many travellers take the express one way and return by PostBus over the Maloja Pass or continue into Italy by bus to the lakeside towns of Como or Lugano. The panoramic cars operate on the Bernina Express service, but the same Albula and Bernina lines are also served by ordinary RhB trains where standard carriages and lower fares apply.
Key highlights along the route
No summary does justice to the scenery, but these are the moments that stay with travellers long after:
- The Landwasser Viaduct (Albula line): a six-arch stone viaduct that curves into a tunnel inside a cliff face — probably the most photographed railway structure in Switzerland. It is best seen from the right-hand side of the train heading from Chur toward St Moritz.
- The Albula spiral tunnels: to gain altitude without excessive gradients, the line loops through a series of tunnels that spiral back on themselves, visibly climbing as it exits the same mountain it just entered.
- Alp Grüm: a high station at around 2,100 metres with views down to the Palü glacier and, on clear days, the distant Valchiavenna. There is a restaurant here; some trains allow a brief stop.
- Ospizio Bernina: the highest point on the line at 2,253 metres, where the train sits level on the watershed between the Rhine and Po basins — water on one side flows to the North Sea, on the other to the Adriatic.
- Brusio spiral viaduct: as the train descends into Italy, it crosses an open spiral viaduct — a circle of track on a curved stone bridge that allows the gradient to ease while the train visibly turns on itself. It is best seen looking back from the last carriage.
Booking the Bernina Express
The Bernina Express is enormously popular, particularly in July and August. Advance booking is strongly recommended — panoramic cars sell out, and the scenic window seats go first. Reservations can be made through the Rhaetian Railway (RhB) website or via Swiss travel agencies.
A mandatory reservation fee applies to the panoramic car, in addition to your base fare or rail pass. Without a reservation, you can still travel the same route on ordinary RhB trains in standard carriages for lower fares and without the scenic panoramic glass roof — a perfectly valid choice if you are on a tight budget or if the express is full.
For information on how rail passes interact with the Bernina Express reservation fee, see seat reservations explained, and for Swiss rail passes that cover the route, see Switzerland by train.
The timetable and journey times
The Bernina Express operates year-round, with reduced frequency in winter. In the peak summer season, several departures run daily. The full journey from Chur to Tirano takes about 4 hours; from Davos to Tirano about 3 hours 45 minutes; and from St Moritz to Tirano about 2 hours 30 minutes.
Alternatively, a short but spectacular section — say, Pontresina or St Moritz to Poschiavo or Alp Grüm — can be combined with a return by ordinary RhB train for a morning's outing rather than a full day.
Continuing to Italy and onward travel
The train terminates at Tirano, a small Italian town just across the Swiss border. From Tirano, a separate narrow-gauge Trenord tram-train runs along the streets into Sondrio and connects to the main Italian rail network. Alternatively, buses run from Tirano to Lecco and Como on Lake Como, making the Bernina Express a natural opening leg of an Italy trip. Check onward connections when planning — the train from Tirano to Milan is not fast, and allowing extra time is wise.
Winter on the Bernina Express
The Bernina line is one of the few Alpine railways to operate year-round without closure for snow — the line is kept open through the winter, and snow-covered passes and frozen lakes make the scenery strikingly different from summer. A winter journey can be quieter and cheaper. Expect shorter operating hours and check availability carefully, as some dates have reduced services.
How the Bernina Express fits into a wider trip
The Bernina Express is a natural component of a Swiss scenic rail tour. Combined with the Glacier Express (Zermatt to St Moritz) or the GoldenPass route, it forms part of a grand circuit through the Alps. See the guide to Europe's most scenic train journeys for how these routes fit together.
Frequently asked questions
Do I need to book the Bernina Express in advance?
Yes, especially in summer. The panoramic cars have limited seats and sell out weeks in advance during peak season. Book as early as you can through the RhB website. A mandatory reservation fee applies even to rail passholders.
Can I use an Interrail or Eurail pass on the Bernina Express?
Yes. Both Interrail and Eurail are valid for travel, but you still need to pay the panoramic car reservation fee separately. The pass covers the base fare; the reservation is an additional charge. Without a pass, you pay a full point-to-point ticket plus reservation.
What is the difference between the Bernina Express and a regular RhB train?
The Bernina Express is a dedicated tourist train with panoramic cars (large curved glass windows, no opening), a commentary service and a mandatory reservation. Regular RhB trains use standard carriages on the same track, have opening windows, require no reservation and are cheaper. Both give access to the same stunning scenery.
Is the Bernina Express worth it in winter?
Yes, though the experience is different. Snow-covered landscapes and frozen Lake Bianco near Ospizio Bernina create a starkly beautiful atmosphere. The line runs year-round, frequencies are reduced, and the trains are usually less crowded. Check timetables carefully, as winter services are more limited.
Sources and further reading:
- Booking, timetables and reservation fees: Rhaetian Railway / RhB (rhb.ch).
- Swiss rail pass options: Switzerland Tourism and Swiss Travel System.
- Route research and seat tips: The Man in Seat 61.
- Onward travel from Tirano: Trenord (trenord.it).