Iceland is one of the world's great driving destinations: a Ring Road circling the entire island, waterfalls and volcanoes visible from the tarmac, and a network of highland tracks — the famous F-roads — that take you into landscapes few people on Earth have seen. Driving here also requires more preparation than almost anywhere else in Europe. The weather changes fast, the highland roads are genuinely remote, and the distances between services are longer than they look on a map. Get the planning right and an Icelandic road trip ranks among the most memorable journeys imaginable.
Documents and what to carry
EU/EEA licence holders can drive in Iceland on their standard driving licence. Visitors from outside the EEA — including UK, US, Canadian and Australian licence holders — should carry an International Driving Permit alongside their national licence. Iceland is a non-EU member of the Schengen Area.
Beyond the usual documents (licence, vehicle registration, insurance), Iceland's conditions mean you should also carry:
- Warning triangle
- High-visibility vest
- Emergency food and water — for highland driving, not just tarmac routes
- Warm clothing and waterproof layers — even in summer
- Portable phone charger
- A physical map — mobile data coverage disappears quickly off the main roads
It is also strongly recommended to register your itinerary with safetravel.is (the Icelandic Search and Rescue portal) before any highland driving. This means rescuers know where to look if you do not return.
Speed limits
Iceland's speed limits are lower than many drivers expect:
- Paved roads outside built-up areas: 90 km/h
- Gravel and unpaved roads outside built-up areas: 80 km/h
- Built-up areas: 50 km/h; some residential areas 30 km/h
Speed cameras operate on Route 1 (the Ring Road) and around Reykjavik. Fines are substantial and are issued to foreign drivers. On gravel roads, the 80 km/h limit is a maximum — on rough or narrow tracks, far lower speeds are appropriate for safety and tyre protection.
The Ring Road (Route 1)
Route 1, known as the Ring Road (Þjóðvegur 1), circles the entire island for around 1,332 km and is the backbone of any Icelandic road trip. The complete circuit typically takes 7–10 days if you want to stop and explore along the way. The road is mostly paved, though some shorter sections — particularly in the east — are gravel. It is open year-round, though winter driving on the Ring Road requires winter tyres and caution; blizzards and ice can close sections without warning.
The Ring Road passes most of Iceland's famous landmarks on or just off the route: Gullfoss, Geysir and Þingvellir are just off the main road on the Golden Circle spur; Skaftafell, Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon, the Eastfjords and Mývatn are directly on it. There are no tolls on any Icelandic road.
F-roads: the Highlands
The F-roads (designated with an "F" prefix, such as F35 Kjölur or F26 Sprengisandur) are the highland interior tracks that connect the volcanic wilderness at the heart of Iceland. These are not roads in the conventional sense — they are rough mountain tracks over lava fields, through river fords and across glacial outwash plains.
Critical rule: F-roads are only open in summer — typically late June to early September, though exact dates vary by year and road. Driving an F-road before it is officially declared open is illegal and dangerous. Even when open, F-roads require a 4WD vehicle with high ground clearance. Standard 2WD hire cars are not permitted on F-roads and your insurance is void if you take a 2WD onto an F-road. This is not a technicality — the roads are genuinely impassable for normal cars.
The most popular F-roads include:
- F35 Kjölur: The most accessible highland route, crossing between north and south Iceland with no river fords. Popular and regularly graded.
- F26 Sprengisandur: A longer, more remote crossing across a vast sandy interior desert. River fords present.
- F208 / Landmannalaugar: Access road to the famous multicoloured rhyolite mountains and the start of the Laugavegur trail. Several river fords required.
- F210 / Fjallabak: Southern highland route, also with river crossings.
River crossings
Many F-roads involve fording glacial rivers — there are no bridges. This is one of the most dangerous aspects of highland driving in Iceland. The golden rules:
- Never ford a river alone. Go in convoy or wait for another vehicle.
- Walk the ford on foot first to check depth, current strength and the bottom. Glacial rivers run fastest and deepest in the afternoon when meltwater peaks.
- Cross in 4L (low range four-wheel drive), slowly and steadily. Keep your speed constant — stopping mid-river lets water flow up into the exhaust.
- Never ford a river that looks too deep or fast. Wait, or turn back. Vehicles are washed away every season.
Driving a hire car into a glacial river is not covered by any standard insurance. Several specialist insurance products for Icelandic driving — including sand, gravel and river-crossing cover — are available from hire companies and worth considering for highland trips.
Weather and safety
Iceland's weather is genuinely unpredictable. Summer storms, sudden mist and low visibility can arrive in minutes. Before any drive:
- Check the official road and weather conditions at road.is (Vegagerðin, the Icelandic Road Administration). This shows current road closures, status by road number and weather forecasts by region.
- Check the weather forecast at vedur.is (Icelandic Met Office).
- Register your route at safetravel.is if travelling in the highlands.
Wind is a particular hazard on Icelandic roads. Iceland experiences extreme gusts, and cars — especially campervans and high-sided vehicles — have been overturned or blown off roads in high winds. Road.is publishes wind speed warnings; if a yellow, orange or red wind alert is in force, reduce speed and keep both hands firmly on the wheel when exposed to crosswinds.
Sheep wander freely across Icelandic roads, especially in the highlands. Hit one at speed and you will cause significant damage to both the vehicle and the animal. Slow down where sheep may be present.
Fuel and practical planning
Petrol and diesel are available in Reykjavik and all larger towns. On the Ring Road, fuel stations are reasonably well spaced, but gaps of 150 km or more occur in the east. On F-roads, there are no fuel stations at all — calculate your range carefully and fill to the top before any highland crossing.
Fuel prices in Iceland are among the highest in Europe. Self-service card pumps are common and operate 24 hours at many stations; smaller rural stations may be staffed only during daytime hours.
Hiring a car in Iceland
Hire car companies at Reykjavik's Keflavik Airport include international brands and numerous Icelandic operators. For the Ring Road, a standard 2WD car is sufficient. For any F-road, you need a 4WD — typically a Toyota Land Cruiser or similar with high ground clearance. Larger 4WDs are significantly more expensive. For advice on what to check in a rental agreement, see our guide to renting a car abroad.
Consider specialised Icelandic insurance add-ons: standard collision damage waiver does not cover gravel damage to the car's bodywork, windscreen chips from stones, or the undercarriage. Sand and ash protection cover is worth having from June to September when highland dust is active.
Frequently asked questions
Can I drive on F-roads with a standard 2WD hire car?
No. F-roads are strictly 4WD only. Taking a 2WD onto an F-road is illegal, and your hire car insurance is void. The roads are also genuinely impassable for standard cars due to rough terrain and river fords.
When do F-roads open in summer?
F-roads typically open between late June and early July, depending on snowmelt, and close again in September or October. The exact dates vary each year. Check the current status at road.is before planning any highland route.
Are there any road tolls in Iceland?
No. Iceland has no road tolls of any kind. The main road network, including the Ring Road and all paved roads, is free to use.
Is it safe to drive in Iceland in winter?
The Ring Road remains open year-round, but winter driving is challenging. Ice, snow, blizzards and limited daylight make winter driving significantly more demanding than summer. Winter tyres are compulsory between October and April. Many F-roads are entirely closed in winter. If you are not experienced in winter driving conditions, consider a summer visit.
Sources and further reading:
- Road status, closures and conditions: Vegagerðin (road.is)
- Weather forecasts: Vedur.is (Icelandic Met Office)
- Highland travel safety registration: safetravel.is (Icelandic Search and Rescue)
- Entry and licence requirements: your own government's travel advice
