Driving in Japan unlocks parts of the country that trains simply cannot reach — rural Hokkaido, the Izu Peninsula, the mountain roads of the Japan Alps, the winding lanes of Kyushu. It is also, for many visitors, a genuinely enjoyable experience: roads are well-maintained, signs are clear, and Japanese driving culture is calm and courteous. The adjustments for foreign drivers are real but manageable — the most important being that Japan drives on the left, and that you will need to sort your paperwork before you arrive.
The International Driving Permit: what you need and why
Japan does not recognise foreign driving licences on their own. To legally drive in Japan, most visitors need an International Driving Permit (IDP) issued in their home country, alongside their national driving licence. The IDP acts as an official translation of your licence into Japanese and other languages.
There is one important exception: licence holders from Switzerland, Germany, France, Belgium, Monaco, Taiwan and Slovenia can drive in Japan with their national licence plus an official translation (not an IDP). If your licence is from one of these places, check the current requirements with the Japan Automobile Federation or your nearest Japanese embassy.
The IDP must be:
- Issued in your home country before you travel — you cannot get one in Japan.
- A 1949 Geneva Convention IDP (Japan does not recognise the 1968 Vienna Convention version, which some countries issue instead). This distinction matters: check which version your national motoring organisation issues before assuming yours is valid.
- Carried alongside your original national driving licence — the IDP alone is not sufficient.
In the UK, the AA and RAC issue IDPs over the counter in a few minutes. US visitors obtain them through the AAA or the American Automobile Touring Alliance. Most national motoring organisations issue them cheaply and quickly.
See the full International Driving Permit guide for a step-by-step overview.
Driving on the left
Japan drives on the left, with the steering wheel on the right-hand side of the car — the same as the UK, Australia, Ireland and much of Southeast Asia. If you are used to driving on the right (most of continental Europe, the US, Canada), expect a genuine adjustment period.
The critical moments are after stops and at junctions, when the instinct to pull right can reassert itself. In practice, being in traffic helps — there are cars around you keeping you honest. The most dangerous moment is driving alone on a quiet rural road after a break, when the default can slip. A passenger calling out reminders, or a note on the dashboard, is a sensible precaution for the first day or two.
Rental cars are right-hand drive. The gearstick (if manual) is on the left; turn signals are the right stalk, wipers the left — the reverse of what many Europeans and North Americans expect. Expect to activate the wipers instead of the indicators occasionally in the first few hours.
ETC cards and expressway tolls
Japan's expressway network is excellent but expensive. Most expressways charge point-to-point tolls, and over a long journey the costs add up — a Tokyo to Osaka run can easily cost the equivalent of a budget flight in tolls alone.
Tolls can be paid at cash booths, but the standard now is ETC (Electronic Toll Collection) — an in-vehicle transponder that debits tolls automatically as you pass through dedicated ETC lanes. ETC lanes are faster, and many expressways run promotions (discounts at night or on weekends) that are only available to ETC users, not cash payers.
For visitors, rental car companies can provide an ETC card and compatible transponder for a daily fee. This is almost always worth taking — it simplifies toll payment, qualifies you for discounts, and avoids fumbling for change at booths. Make sure to confirm that the card is registered and active before you leave the car park.
ETC lanes are marked clearly in blue with an "ETC" sign. Do not enter an ETC lane without a working transponder — the barrier will not open and you will need to reverse in traffic. If you have an ETC unit, check it is functioning before the first toll.
Key road rules
Japan's road rules are strictly enforced. Key points for foreign drivers:
- Speed limits: 100 km/h on expressways; 60 km/h on general national roads outside built-up areas; 40 km/h in urban areas; some residential streets 30 km/h. Traffic is rarely fast even on expressways.
- Alcohol limit: 0.3‰ blood alcohol, but the effective standard is zero tolerance — penalties are severe and enforcement is serious. Japanese culture around drink-driving is strongly disapproving.
- Mobile phones: strictly prohibited while driving, with substantial fines.
- Seat belts: mandatory for all passengers, including rear seats.
- Traffic lights: turning left on red is not permitted (unlike the US right-on-red). Follow the signal.
Parking in Japanese cities
Urban Japan — especially Tokyo, Osaka, Kyoto and the major city centres — has a parking culture quite unlike Europe or North America. Paid car parks are the norm, often multistorey mechanical structures where an attendant or automated system parks your car for you. Street parking is very limited. Parking fees in central Tokyo can be substantial, particularly for extended stays.
Outside the cities, parking at tourist sites, onsen resorts and rural destinations is generally free or cheap and plentiful. Japan's car-based rural tourism infrastructure is well-developed.
Driving in Hokkaido and rural Japan
Hokkaido — Japan's northernmost main island — is the classic road-trip destination. Wide roads, low traffic, dramatic scenery (especially in lavender season in the Furano/Biei area) and distances that reward driving rather than trains. In winter, Hokkaido's roads are snow-covered and require winter tyres — rental companies fit these as standard during winter months.
Rural Japan more broadly rewards the driver who is willing to follow a secondary road rather than an expressway. Mountain passes (tōge) through the Japan Alps and on the Izu and Noto peninsulas are scenic, winding and often uncrowded.
Renting a car in Japan
Major international rental companies and a number of strong domestic operators (Toyota Rent a Car, Nippon Rent-A-Car, Orix) operate throughout Japan. Renting at regional airports, rather than in central city locations, is often simpler and cheaper. Most cars will be automatic, which is what most visitors want given the left-hand adjustment. Navigation is typically provided via in-car GPS with Japanese language settings — consider a GPS with English menus or use an offline map app on your phone.
Frequently asked questions
Do I need an International Driving Permit to drive in Japan?
Most visitors do, yes — Japan requires an IDP alongside your national licence for foreign drivers. The IDP must be a Geneva Convention 1949 version. Certain countries (including Germany, France, Switzerland and Belgium) have an alternative arrangement — check specifics with the Japanese embassy or JAF before you travel.
Is driving in Japan difficult for someone used to driving on the right?
It takes a day or two to adjust, but most drivers find the transition manageable. In traffic you have natural guidance from surrounding cars. The main risk is on quiet roads after a break — take it slowly until left-side driving feels instinctive.
How expensive are the toll roads in Japan?
Expressway tolls are significant. A cross-country journey can cost as much as a domestic flight in tolls alone. For local driving around a single region the costs are more modest. Taking the ETC option from your rental company gives you access to night/weekend discounts that can reduce the bill.
Can I drive in Japan with a UK licence?
No — a UK licence alone is not accepted. You need a UK licence plus a 1949 Geneva Convention IDP. Obtain the IDP from the AA or RAC before you travel, as it cannot be issued in Japan.
Sources and further reading:
- Official IDP and driving rules in Japan: Japan Automobile Federation (JAF — jaf.or.jp/e).
- Expressway tolls and ETC information: NEXCO (Japan expressway operator — driveplaza.com).
- IDP country requirements: your national motoring organisation (AA, AAA, ADAC, etc.).
- Foreign visitors' driving guide: Japan Tourism Agency.